I’m not the first blogger to write about Hiro’s Yakko-San (not to be confused with its neighbor, Hiro’s Sushi Express). But after an eating spree there Saturday night, I might be the most enamored. It was a friend’s birthday and we split a selection of the extensive menu to celebrate the occasion. It turned out to be the best meal I’ve had in Miami since moving home in February.
Yakko-San is a mid-sized Japanese “tapas” eatery in an ugly North Miami Beach strip mall. Its decor is unremarkable, lacking even the hole-in-the-wall charm of many a diamond in the rough. TVs hang from the walls of the restaurant’s two rooms, which contain about 15 tables and two bars between them. If you usually don’t fancy eating in Dolby Surround Sound, you may want to make an exception for Yakko-San, perhaps the lone samurai among Miami’s Japanese joints.
My meal started off with a 27-piece sashimi platter ($30) and an order of dried kawahagi, or trigger fish jerky ($4). The two dishes set each other off perfectly, with the fresh, clean bite of the sashimi cleansing the palate after the tough, spiced trigger fish.